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Costs, fees & credit

Points and rate buy-downs: does paying for a lower rate pay off?

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Costs, fees & credit

A rising teal savings line crossing a flat orange cost line at a gold break-even point, beside a split disc, on a near-black field — when buying down a rate pays off.

Buying down your rate with discount points comes down to one number: the break-even. How to calculate it, a worked example, and why a possible future refinance can change the whole call.

You can almost always pay a little extra upfront to get a lower interest rate — "buying down" the rate with discount points. Whether that's a smart move or wasted money comes down to a single number you can calculate yourself: the break-even.

What points actually are

A discount point is prepaid interest. One point equals 1% of your loan amount, paid at closing, in exchange for a lower rate for the life of the loan. (Don't confuse discount points with origination points, which are a lender fee — a different thing.) You're essentially pre-paying to rent a cheaper rate.

The trade-off

Points cost you more now to save you money every month. So the whole question is: how long until those monthly savings add up to what you paid upfront?

The break-even calculation

It's simple division:

Break-even (months) = cost of the points ÷ monthly savings

Hypothetical example — illustrative rate, not a quote or offer of credit.

Say you have a $300,000 loan. One point costs $3,000 and lowers your payment by about $50 a month. Your break-even is $3,000 ÷ $50 = 60 months — five years. Keep the loan past five years and the points pay off; sell or refinance before then and you've lost money on the deal.

What to weigh beyond the math

  • How long you'll actually keep the loan. If you'll move or refinance before break-even, don't buy points.
  • The chance rates fall and you refinance. This is the big one. If you buy points and then refinance into a lower rate next year, you forfeit the remaining benefit you paid for. In a falling-rate environment, points are a gamble.
  • Opportunity cost of the cash. Those dollars might do more as a larger down payment, in reserves, or elsewhere.
  • Who pays. A seller-paid buydown changes the math entirely, and a temporary buydown (like a 2-1) is a different animal than a permanent point buy-down — worth understanding before you choose.

The move

Run your break-even, compare it honestly to how long you'll realistically keep the loan, and factor in the odds you'll refinance. Points make sense for a long hold with stable or rising rates. They're a weak bet if there's a real chance you'll refinance soon.

Point costs, rate reductions, and buydown structures vary by lender and shift with the market — ask your loan officer to run the exact break-even for your scenario before you decide.

Jahno is free and reader-supported. If this guide helped, you can chip in — a thank-you is plenty too.

About the author

Mike Jaghnoun is an NMLS-licensed Mortgage Loan Originator working in 26 states. Jahno is his independent publication on mortgage education — written from the borrower's side. More about Mike and how Jahno works.

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